Restaurant as Chameleon

If you have been waiting for the next trend in restaurantdom, it’s already dropped. Meet the all-day neighborhood café cum wine bar — a place that serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and drinks, all under a single roof.

The latest practitioner of this burgeoning trend is Aperitivo by CARTA, a sister to the popular CARTA Wine Bar. Located at the bustling intersection of West 10th Street and Sixth Avenue, Aperitivo by CARTA aims to be a neighborhood anchor that feels both familiar and special. It is a place where you can begin your day with coffee from Paloma Bakery and perhaps a protein-forward sandwich of smoked salmon, avocado, and arugula on a croissant, pause midday for lunch or a snack, and return in late afternoon for a glass of wine. Craft beers, vermouths, and spritzes are also available.

An artful lowering of the lights as the evening approaches converts the space into a date-night destination, serving as a romantic backdrop for dinner. Start with one of the house’s unusual raw bar items, such as mussels on the half shell dressed with a piquillo chili cold foam and a sprightly romesco. From there it’s on to the likes of braised short rib presented alongside a marrow bone and a log of focaccia toast. Or opt for the creamy lobster mac and cheese.

The wines are carefully curated by wine director Rebecca Powelson.

Price range: $4 to $6.50 for coffee and breakfast drinks, $5 to $6.50 for breakfast pastries, $12 to $16 for breakfast sandwiches, $8 to $12 for breakfast bowls, $16 to $18 for lunch sandwiches, $8 to $18 for soup-and-sandwich combos; $6 to $27 for snacks, $20 to $28 for raw bar selections, and $16 to $45 for mains.

Aperitivo by CARTA, 101 West 10th Street (at Sixth Ave.), New York, (929) 248-6685.

See also…

Celebrating Women-Made Wines for Women’s History Month; Ladies Who Lunch